On y salue une ambition digne d’une cathédrale, et ce n’est qu’une tourte, un immense pâté de viande.
Gare de Metz Ville, an architectural marvel—or so they say. It astounds us with its Romanesque style and a steeple, supposedly designed by Wilhelm II, but nothing soars; everything is contained, squat, and compressed under a lid of prodigious spinach-green.
Writer Maurice Barrès, a prominent figure in the French Revanche movement against Germany, offers a vitriolic description of the Metz Gare:
It claims to be as ambitious as a cathedral, but it’s nothing but a pie, an immense meat pie.
Nestled in the heart of Metz, Gare de Metz Ville is a monumental railway station that has been a witness to over a century of history. Built between 1905 and 1908, it emerged during the era of the German Empire’s control over the region of Alsace-Lorraine, following the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71. In its architectural form, the station reveals a deliberate blend of styles, a reflection of the aspirations of the German Empire. The façade exudes a neo-Romanesque charm, reminiscent of the grandeur of the Holy Roman Empire, with its imposing tower and cathedral-like presence, while the station’s buffet area and departure hall evoke the ambiance of a medieval noble palace, signalling the fusion of political and religious power under the emperor’s rule. Bas-reliefs celebrating the triumphs of civilization and the might of the German Empire adorn its walls.
The construction of Gare de Metz Ville, masterminded with a dual purpose of military might and civilian utility, was meant to facilitate the rapid movement of troops and logistics during times of conflict. The station’s expansive platforms and multiple tracks were meticulously planned to accommodate the transportation of thousands of soldiers and their equipment, even horses and cannons, within a single day. In the era marked by ever-shifting geopolitical rivalries and the ever-looming spectre of war, the strategic importance of the Gare de Metz Ville was nothing short of paramount.
Its creation was not merely an architectural endeavour but a reflection of the political and military ambitions of its time. The station features a profusion of sculptures, including those depicting Charlemagne and references to the local Carolingian dynasty. Notably, the station once had a monumental statue representing Count Haeseler as Roland, a symbol that gained prominence in German propaganda during World War I.
As Metz returned to French control, the Gare de Metz Ville stood as a haunting relic, bearing witness to the tumultuous events that had engulfed Europe in the early 20th century. Once bustling with activity, it now echoed with emptiness, a stark reminder of a bygone era. The surrounding area, once teeming with life, had become desolate, abandoned by those who wished to distance themselves from the echoes of Imperial Metz. The scars of history ran deep, leaving an indelible mark on the collective memory of France. It was a chapter that many regarded with disdain and revulsion. The station was an unpalatable reminder of a past thought best forgotten. It was disgusting. A meat pie.
However, as the decades passed and Europe’s geopolitical landscape evolved, so too did the perception of the train station. Statues and stained-glass windows, that once paid homage to Charlemagne and the imperial eagle, bear the legacy of multiple transitions. These symbols, once powerful, witnessed changes in allegiance as the tides of history shifted. The station itself underwent a shift in identity.
Gare de Metz Ville, once perceived as a manifestation of imperial might, transformed into something deeper—a sentinel standing at the crossroads of history’s shifting tides. Afterall, the station and its adjacent water tower rest on 3,034 foundation piles, each extending from ten to seventeen meters deep. These foundations were constructed using reinforced concrete, following a method developed by French engineer François Hennebique. Like its 3,034 foundation piles, the station anchored itself in the ever-changing narrative of a city and a continent. These foundations symbolize not only strength but adaptability. They absorbed the shocks of the past, just as the station absorbed the echoes of wars and peace. With each passing era, this architectural marvel mirrored the resilience of Metz itself, standing tall amidst the currents of time.
Adorning the Gare’s ceiling were vibrant depictions of Ginkgo leaves. The Ginkgo tree, renowned for surviving the cataclysmic atomic bombing of Hiroshima during the dark days of World War II, emerged as a profound emblem of resilience and unwavering endurance amidst the ashes of destruction. No longer tethered to its past as a symbol of German occupation, the Gare now proudly stood as a testament to Metz’s indomitable spirit, a city reclaiming its heritage while bearing witness to its own miraculous renaissance.
As one traverses the station’s halls and corridors, there’s an undeniable sense of history, of a bygone era when Europe teetered on the brink of cataclysmic events. The echoes of soldiers’ boots, the clatter of luggage, and the whispers of passengers tell stories of departures and reunions, of wartime mobilizations and peacetime travels. The juxtaposition of architectural styles and historical symbols in the Gare de Metz serves as a living testament to the city’s complex past. It is a place where German and French influences intertwine, where the ambitions of emperors meet the aspirations of artists, and where the impact of war lingers in the shadows.
Three times, it has earned the title of the “Most Beautiful Station in France,” a recognition that transcends its utilitarian function and speaks to its enduring appeal. The Gare de Metz Ville is not just a railway station; it’s a testament to history, a marvel of architecture, and a symbol of Metz’s resilience and reinvention. It remains, at its core, a piece of living history—a pie, perhaps, but one filled with the rich flavours of the past, the present, and the promise of the future.
Amidst its grandeur, the gare finds its place; a testament to time, in history’s embrace.
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